How To Tap Into A 12v Power Source Written By Boyd Losom2001 Saturday, December 31, 2022 Add Comment Edit I've always used the little 3M "quick connect" taps that look like this: to tap into something like a restriction wire to get switched power to trigger a relay or something. Recently I was told these connectors are "no good" and that soldering is always amend on a motorcycle. Is this truthful? If and so, how would one tap into, say, the restriction power line? Do you cut it, then solder 3 wire ends together (the ii from the cut restriction line and i for your new wire)? This seems risky since most existing writing does not have any slack, and 1 or two bad strips and you're running an entirely new wire. Cheers for whatever help! People seem to resolve their Erectile Dysfunction issues spontaneously when the topic of Posilock Connectors "arises." Click me! Equally to soldering, when it'southward practical (access, no fear of burning/melting Important Stuff), it's a beautiful thing. It's well laid out ... here: Click me! Accept fun most of the time i tap into an existing line(A) i simply use a razor blade knife and gently peel off about 3/four". i say gently considering i don't desire to nick any of the strands within. the other wire(B) i only strip off the aforementioned useing a pair of normal strippers. then i wrap wire B around wire A untill all of B is used up. then i stop with sodering and wraping with vinyl electrical tape. this way the org length of the host wire is unchanged. xroad Been hither awhile Joined: Jun twenty, 2007 Oddometer: 775 3M Quick Connect ... Are they the ones that you use a pair of pliers to printing in a metallic tab that guillitine the insultaion of the wire without cutting the conductor? I use to use them in a relative sheltered environment of a car interior. Found out nether the hood, environment is non every bit friendly. In time, I had connection problems in those under the hood. The Posi somthing type as well works groovy for emergency but they are not sealed. They make their connection by compression. Fifty-fifty the crimp connectors tin can fail over time if exposed to theelements. Solder is the fashion to get. I conduct stuff to make emergency fix based on ease of apply and reliability. Practice the solder later. Previous post described solder method. No need to cut the wire. trim back, carefully the insulation and wrap the new wire around the old. Then use electrical tape subsequently solder. Found out not all electrical tapes are equal. I accept had old stale up electrical tapes on work done years ago and other ones are still perfectly wrapped and sealed. I buy ones fabricated by 3M. Thinner ane seams to conform and stick meliorate. Never tried the "paint on" insulation. Don't know if they hold up with age. ScEd Been here awhile Personal Preference. I prefer to Solder my connections. 3M Quick Connects or Scotchlock connectors are wire gage specific and I accept seen the insulating sleeve come un-snapped probably due to vibration. I have all the same never seen a bad connection resulting from a properly sized and installed QC blazon connector. some times I employ crimp ons. the methoud that i use is offset slip over the wire a modest section of shrink tubeing, and so strip the wire and dip the end into die-electric grease..skid the wire into the selected connector/ coulping and crimp with the "un-insulated "dies on a proficient crimping tool. excess grease will be forced out..non to worry...heat the shrink tubeing over the connection, leaving simply the forks or ring exposed. the acid test of such a connection is when you take hold of the connection with a pair of plyers and the wire afixed to some stationary object and pull with all you're internal steam. the wire should interruption b4 it pulls out of the crimp. the type of plyers i apply can exist seen hither http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=35-5431&div=iii&l1=crimp_tools&l2=wm_9-3-4_multi-crimp_tool i'm not selling 'em..i just know what works ..the picayune play crimping tools that comes with auto kits, are merely a waste of expert chinese steel mark1305 Former Enough To Know Better Supporter If the identify I demand to tap is reasonably shut to any blazon of spade connecter or a fuse cake with blade type fuses, I like the piggy back connectors. Sometimes chosen test connectors. It fits into the spade connector and has an extra blade sticking out to permit plugging an extra female spade into the connection. Usually tin can find them at good automobile parts stores. Other than that I normally employ a skillful quality (unremarkably marine stuff) butt connector, cut the wire and install the butt splice with the additional wire siamesed into one end. I'm with Waldo (where ever he is) but I like to use liquid tape for waterproofness...... http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better Supporter That Trail Tech kit looks like nearly equally good as you tin become brusk of all-out professional production stuff - and for a smashing price. I used to do electric fab in a major gunkhole factory, and quality connectors and crimpers ain't cheap plenty for the average DIYer. That kit is good stuff for an amateur.. I may take to order one for myself. +1 on posi-locks! xroad Been here awhile Joined: Jun xx, 2007 Oddometer: 775 I twisted the strands from both wire ends and stick information technology in the posi-lock. Tighten the posi-lock. Washed. Very fast and like shooting fish in a barrel. I don't know if posi-lock makes any claims of water seal. I always feels a fleck uneasy nearly it. I preferred soldering. I accept used Posi Lock for a "permanant" wire connexion. The wires were exposed to the element, right in front of the bike below the headlamps. The bike was a crashed full fairing bike that no longer have the protection of the fairing. It was good for three+ years with no trouble. It was a "permanant" connection because I never got around to go dorsum and solder the wires, even thought it was out in the open and not cached within a console. I am certain these are available somewhere else but when I worked at a chevrolet dealer they had crimp on connectors that had heat compress insulation. With a proficient pair of crimpers they were just as strong every bit the wires they were fixing. Soldering wires seems to add together resistance over a connexion. the wires don't actually bear upon each other and the juice has to go through the solder. Also solder doesn't have whatsoever tensile force when it comes to flexibility. The soldering process will cause the wires to suspension next to the solder joint. I now work at a toyota dealer and we have snazzy footling metal rings and the proper crimping tools to blast the crap out of the little metallic rings. These and some GOOD heat shrink make repairs that never have to exist repaired. posilock makes waterproof\vibration proof connectors. I nevertheless prefer to solder but I have a few posilocks in my toolkit for emergency roadside repairs. Practice those crimping pliars work on that monster connector? Look at it, it's huge! :eek1 Source: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/12v-gurus-best-way-to-tap-into-an-existing-wire.305935/ Share this post
I've always used the little 3M "quick connect" taps that look like this: to tap into something like a restriction wire to get switched power to trigger a relay or something. Recently I was told these connectors are "no good" and that soldering is always amend on a motorcycle. Is this truthful? If and so, how would one tap into, say, the restriction power line? Do you cut it, then solder 3 wire ends together (the ii from the cut restriction line and i for your new wire)? This seems risky since most existing writing does not have any slack, and 1 or two bad strips and you're running an entirely new wire. Cheers for whatever help!
People seem to resolve their Erectile Dysfunction issues spontaneously when the topic of Posilock Connectors "arises." Click me! Equally to soldering, when it'southward practical (access, no fear of burning/melting Important Stuff), it's a beautiful thing. It's well laid out ... here: Click me! Accept fun
most of the time i tap into an existing line(A) i simply use a razor blade knife and gently peel off about 3/four". i say gently considering i don't desire to nick any of the strands within. the other wire(B) i only strip off the aforementioned useing a pair of normal strippers. then i wrap wire B around wire A untill all of B is used up. then i stop with sodering and wraping with vinyl electrical tape. this way the org length of the host wire is unchanged.
3M Quick Connect ... Are they the ones that you use a pair of pliers to printing in a metallic tab that guillitine the insultaion of the wire without cutting the conductor? I use to use them in a relative sheltered environment of a car interior. Found out nether the hood, environment is non every bit friendly. In time, I had connection problems in those under the hood. The Posi somthing type as well works groovy for emergency but they are not sealed. They make their connection by compression. Fifty-fifty the crimp connectors tin can fail over time if exposed to theelements. Solder is the fashion to get. I conduct stuff to make emergency fix based on ease of apply and reliability. Practice the solder later. Previous post described solder method. No need to cut the wire. trim back, carefully the insulation and wrap the new wire around the old. Then use electrical tape subsequently solder. Found out not all electrical tapes are equal. I accept had old stale up electrical tapes on work done years ago and other ones are still perfectly wrapped and sealed. I buy ones fabricated by 3M. Thinner ane seams to conform and stick meliorate. Never tried the "paint on" insulation. Don't know if they hold up with age.
Personal Preference. I prefer to Solder my connections. 3M Quick Connects or Scotchlock connectors are wire gage specific and I accept seen the insulating sleeve come un-snapped probably due to vibration. I have all the same never seen a bad connection resulting from a properly sized and installed QC blazon connector.
some times I employ crimp ons. the methoud that i use is offset slip over the wire a modest section of shrink tubeing, and so strip the wire and dip the end into die-electric grease..skid the wire into the selected connector/ coulping and crimp with the "un-insulated "dies on a proficient crimping tool. excess grease will be forced out..non to worry...heat the shrink tubeing over the connection, leaving simply the forks or ring exposed. the acid test of such a connection is when you take hold of the connection with a pair of plyers and the wire afixed to some stationary object and pull with all you're internal steam. the wire should interruption b4 it pulls out of the crimp. the type of plyers i apply can exist seen hither http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=35-5431&div=iii&l1=crimp_tools&l2=wm_9-3-4_multi-crimp_tool i'm not selling 'em..i just know what works ..the picayune play crimping tools that comes with auto kits, are merely a waste of expert chinese steel
If the identify I demand to tap is reasonably shut to any blazon of spade connecter or a fuse cake with blade type fuses, I like the piggy back connectors. Sometimes chosen test connectors. It fits into the spade connector and has an extra blade sticking out to permit plugging an extra female spade into the connection. Usually tin can find them at good automobile parts stores. Other than that I normally employ a skillful quality (unremarkably marine stuff) butt connector, cut the wire and install the butt splice with the additional wire siamesed into one end.
I'm with Waldo (where ever he is) but I like to use liquid tape for waterproofness...... http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation
That Trail Tech kit looks like nearly equally good as you tin become brusk of all-out professional production stuff - and for a smashing price. I used to do electric fab in a major gunkhole factory, and quality connectors and crimpers ain't cheap plenty for the average DIYer. That kit is good stuff for an amateur.. I may take to order one for myself.
I twisted the strands from both wire ends and stick information technology in the posi-lock. Tighten the posi-lock. Washed. Very fast and like shooting fish in a barrel. I don't know if posi-lock makes any claims of water seal. I always feels a fleck uneasy nearly it. I preferred soldering. I accept used Posi Lock for a "permanant" wire connexion. The wires were exposed to the element, right in front of the bike below the headlamps. The bike was a crashed full fairing bike that no longer have the protection of the fairing. It was good for three+ years with no trouble. It was a "permanant" connection because I never got around to go dorsum and solder the wires, even thought it was out in the open and not cached within a console.
I am certain these are available somewhere else but when I worked at a chevrolet dealer they had crimp on connectors that had heat compress insulation. With a proficient pair of crimpers they were just as strong every bit the wires they were fixing. Soldering wires seems to add together resistance over a connexion. the wires don't actually bear upon each other and the juice has to go through the solder. Also solder doesn't have whatsoever tensile force when it comes to flexibility. The soldering process will cause the wires to suspension next to the solder joint. I now work at a toyota dealer and we have snazzy footling metal rings and the proper crimping tools to blast the crap out of the little metallic rings. These and some GOOD heat shrink make repairs that never have to exist repaired.
posilock makes waterproof\vibration proof connectors. I nevertheless prefer to solder but I have a few posilocks in my toolkit for emergency roadside repairs.
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